Rain in Sorrento!
Well, our hostel in Sorrento was in a town about 5 minutes bus ride from main Sorrento, called San'Agnello. We arrived to torrential rain, dark, and biting wind, and had to get ourselves down a maze of what turned out, a few days later, to be tiny picturesque little alleyways, big enough only for Vespas, to our hotel. We arrived soaked, and cold. The room was beautiful, tiles and shutters in vivid greens, overlooking a lemon orchard. Would be beautiful (and packed) in summer. We ventured out for food, dashing down the road through the rain to the local taverna, where I had amazing pizza and very cheap and good and much needed local white wine.
The next day was rainy, bitterly cold, and after arriving in Sorrento to find that the ferries to Positano and Amalfi weren't sailing because it was too rough, and the road to Positano was closed due to a landslip caused by the rain, and it was too awful a day to go to Capri, we accepted defeat and had a chill-out day in Sorrento, which turned out to be timely. We did a good load of washing (industrial dryers shrunk 2 of my tops though, eek!!), had a wander around the shops, a young pizzaria guy made us panini at 5pm even though he was officially closed, and we went to bed early.
Our last day on the Amalfi Coast was a bit nicer. We had an incredible breakfast of freshly squeezed orange juice, fresh fruit, croissants, cereal (gosh you get sick of just croissants and coffee for breakfast! I didn't think I would, but we've both been craving veges and fruit, and the plain old cereal was bliss!) and then set off. The boats still weren't running, so we caught the bus to Amalfi, along with a busload of tourists including an incredibly loud bunch of English middle-aged ladies, who complained loudly at how long everything was taking and pushed like there was no tomorrow. The bus ride was testing... the whole way it was hairpin bend after hairpin bend, and someone was sick halfway there, so we had the lovely smell of vomit to contend with for the rest of the 2 hour journey.
The landscape though was incredible. Houses perched on the most precarious bits of cliff, with pocket gardens crammed with orange and lemon trees or grape vines. When we all gratefully got off the bus at Amalfi, Sheena almost ran to the sea (she hadn't seen the ocean in a year, living in London) and then we went for a ramble around the beautiful streets. Very touristy, but so picturesque, crazy little alleyways and washing hanging out, geraniums, fruit stores and ceramics all brightly coloured, houses packed together and an amazing church with gold leaf all over it on the outside and frescoes of the saints. We had a leisurely lunch in the main piazza, for me a calzone to start, then a gelato, and then a wander along the seafront. Miraculously, the sun had come out on our way there, so we had brilliant warm sunshine. Still no boats going back to Sorrento, so we had to reluctantly hop back on a bus, this time going via Positano, now that the roads had finally opened again. This journey was better, no vomit, and less hairpin bends, and we got to see a bit of Positano, which was quaintly pretty too. Just picture postcard style, like you wouldn't believe.... the old men DO stand around in the evening gossiping, in full vests and hats and dress jackets, the old ladies DO wear full length furs and pearls out shopping, the vespas are EVERYWHERE, they DO have strange little yappy dogs, the women wear high heels EVERYWHERE, no one seems to ever repaint their buildings, everything is pastel coloured, the pattiseries and gelaterias and enotecas (wine shops) look like movie sets. I keep expecting to see Paris Hilton wandering by, or Juliette Binoche. Fantastic.
Anyway, back to the hostel, on the train, and off to Sienna.... which you'll have to wait for in the next exciting chapter :-)
Posted on 08 Apr 2007 by Anna